The Burrabazar Market locally known as China Bazar now Bagri Market was always a destination for buying firecrackers during Diwali. A wholesale market, once in a year shopping of plastic buckets etc, utensils, oddments was always done here. Attractive prices beckoned especially if one was shopping for a larger family for the year before Diwali, when all homes got an overhaul.  I loved all the sections, for almost anything one thought of buying. Cloth, stationery, sequins, plastic, party decorations to name a few, not one but many dozen shops for each item spoilt us for choice. Walking down the alleys seemed like an adventure. A fascinating experience, I loved it and still do. I find the modern malls limited in choice compelling us to buy brands that the respective shops garner the best deals for.

I went back to Bagri Market  today and was mesmerised yet again. Earlier I would come away with a whole lot of goodies some not needed simply because the bargain price enticed and seduced. Older and wiser I made a beeline for Nand Ram Market where one gets fabrics in a huge variety at attractive rates. An array to choose from, I got exactly what I wanted at the right price. Happiness indeed!

The great Bazar or Burrabazar has its origins almost 300 years ago. Job Charnock, an agent of East India Company, set up an important yarn factory at Sutanuti on August 24, 1690 which  has become one of the largest wholesale markets in Asia. When the British made  the new Fort William in Gobindapur their headquarters, they displaced Sheths, Basaks, Sheels and Dattas who were compensated by the British with mere lands in Sutanuti . There was a hat which grew into Burrabazar, a permanent wholesale cum retail market.

With the Permanent Settlement Act enforced and the ownership of lands changing hands numerous farmers were unable to pay out the high rents.  A township in Calcutta was growing and needed masons, artisans, ironsmiths. The people migrated and settled here as there were better opportunities. Thus grew  a settlement in this native town with the “Big Bazaar”.

Kolkata being the capital of British India grew in importance and the advent of railways in the early 1860’s facilitated the journey of merchants particularly the Marwari, Gujarati and Khatri etc. to Kolkata. They settled in Burrabazar in large numbers. Over the centuries, Burrabazaar has witnessed merchants belonging to different communities  settled here, lending the neighbourhood a distinct identity.

The diversity of Burrabazaar features in a mid-19th century book, ‘Anglo India Sketches’ by Colesworthy Grant.

“…Burrabazar, a mart tailed on to the north end of the China bazaar and occupied and visited by traders from all parts of the east. Here may be seen the jewels of Golkanda and Bundelkhand, the shawls of Cashmere, the broad cloths of England, silks of Murshidabad and Benaras, muslins of Dacca, Calicoes, ginghams, Chintzes and beads from Coromandel, fruits and firs of Cabul, silk fabrics and brocades of Persia, spices and myrch from Ceylon, Spice Islands and Arabia, shells from the eastern coast and straits, drugs, dried fruit and sweetmeats from Arabia and Turkey, cow’s tails from Tibet and ivory from Ceylon; a great portion of these and various other articles too numerous to mention are either sold or bought by the natives from the countries where they are obtained who together with visitors, travellers and beggars form diversified group of Persians, Arabs, Jews, Marwarees, Armenians, Madrasees, Sikhs, Turks, Parsees, Chinese, Burmese and Bengalees.”

This market consists of special  sub-markets like Khangrapatti, Sonapatti, Masalapatti, Lohapatti, Pagyapatti etc. The sub-markets are also subdivided into Katra, Chowk or Kothi . Each Katra is known for a particular item.  Murgihatta for poultry initiated by the Portuguese. Their Church, the Cathedral of the Holy Rosary popularly known as the Murgihatta Church still stands proud as a catholic bastion among the predominantly Protestant Churches visited by the British in the city inhabited by the Goras.

In the neighbourhood you will find an Armenian church, three synagogues and a number of Chinese temples. The migrants came here, added their identity and merged into the behemoth Calcutta.

Bagri Market, known as China Bazar, off Brabourne Road, Posta Bazar, Mahatma Gandhi Road, Clive Row, all a part of this throbbing locality of Burrabazar. A riot of colour, a cauldron no less. Maybe a hodge podge but they fit so beautifully into a multicultural, pluralistic colossus that is Calcutta.