Goa, a speck on the map always appeared to me to be a few kilometers along the coastline with well known beaches… Baga, Calangute, Anjuna, Candolim. As a holiday destination it was never a priority, maybe a no-no. The beaches were famed for nudist colonies and drug pushers inhabiting shacks. One knew of  prohibitively expensive hotels with private beaches, which were virtually out of bounds. A Portuguese colony during the 14th and 15th centuries – we knew some Anglo Indians who had relocated to Kolkata  – Menezes, Da Costa, Braganza. The Vindaloo seemed to be the most famous product originating there. The Cashew wine, Feni was inebriating, one heard. One couldn’t imagine the reason for the hype that was Goa.

“Finding Fanny” a film set in Goa was a contradiction of all that I knew second-hand about this place. The rocky terrain, small villages with smaller close knit communities, with access to modern day add-ons. I was perplexed. Where were the beaches and the foreigners and the shacks? Some friends moved there and I never could think why? I imagined there would be some Shamans treating them with morphine. I made my way there to visit them and it was a revelation.

North to South Goa is about 200 Kms and takes more than six hours to traverse. There are small villages after which the beaches are named. The church spires are visible around which the communities reside. I met a gentleman, whose family hailed from Goa and he had adopted Christianity. I foolishly commented that wasn’t he already Christian. His family must be Portuguese descendants. .  He was piqued, very much a Hindu, a Brahmin he had converted to Christianity for erstwhile reasons. I had equated Goa with Christians, forgetting the large Hindu communities coexisting with the Christians and some Muslims. On a closer look one found temples that dotted the coast too. A stereotype busted.

Some visits later, I have fallen in love with Goa.  A little more with each visit. The place is clean, the villages have retained their quaintness with local grocery shops and bazaars serving the inhabitants. The restaurants and jazz bars are ubiquitous, each renowned for its ambience and flavor. The restaurants serving various cuisines with exquisite names, décor and interesting menus tempt and excite.  Martin’s Corner has the famed Mario cartoons etched on the walls. The music enlivens and a karaoke bar invites would-be singers. The people are easy going carefree, fun loving and non judgemental. I sang a few tuneless bars and everyone applauded. They dance as though there was no tomorrow and the groove is perfect.

Panjim, the capital of Goa is a quaint town, modern jostling with the old, synchronizing, not overpowering. Lit fests, Film fests, music festivals, art. It is home to authors photographers, artists, studio potters, designers all drawing sustenance from the local energy. Some celebrity has a gorgeous accommodation as one drives through the length of this state.

The Beaches each have their own distinctive character. The ones in the South are dotted with niche five star hotels with quiet secluded beaches. Moving North, Anjuna, Baga Calangute are crowded  and noisy, with Indians. The nighttime has bars along the beach playing rock with foreigners mostly Russians chilling with beer and puffing on joints. The Dona Paula Beach with water sports was the scene for most of the dhishoom dhishoom  Hindi films of yore – the smuggling dens with Mac and Ajit, the ransom and the lissome molls, Rita, Sona and their ilk.

Vagator was unimaginably beautiful. A cliff on the beach with a Greek bistro “thalassa” meaning heaven had a stunning view shaded with the swaying palm trees, the quiet swish of the sea and a vantage view from the top. The sunset with the light dancing on the waves was surely the closest one could be with the Divine.

Candolim, Majorda, Palolem, Sangaldo –  names mostly Portuguese, the people with dusky complexions speak Konkani. They worship Christ, Shakti, Shanta durga and Allah.  They have music and dance with them and their soul lends so generously to the wonderful ambience. So much to be discovered, so many conversations yet to happen!

“A little sun–kissed, a little wind- blown and decidedly lazy. “ Goa beckons –  yet again.