The black pavilion built during the early part of Jahangir’s reign (1569–1627), in the top terrace of the Shalimar Bagh, has the famous inscription in Persian, which says
اگر فردوس بر روے زمین است
همین است و همین است و همین است
Agar Firdaus bar rōy-e zamin ast,
hamin ast-o hamin ast-o hamin ast.
This is a couplet wrongly attributed to the Persian-language poet Amir Khusrau, But written by a Persian poet ‘Orfi Shirazi during his visit to Kashmir.

It’s the Shalimar, the gem, the aspired destination for everyone. Unfortunately it remained a dream as the valley became unsafe and we vicariously enjoyed the beauty in Hindi films. Last year there were hordes who visited there. My husband,  reluctant to travel at all was further daunted by the  journey to 3 places. I was adamant and signed up with a Womens group Women on Wanderlust. A bucket list item to be ticked off and my bucket was not too far away.

Despite my family having reservations about safety issues I set off regardless. A non-stop flight and we were circling around Srinagar after a few hours.. The gorgeous snow capped peaks rubbed shoulders with the wings of the plane. The clouds gave way to a clearer vision of the valley dotted with multi-coloured squares which were probably houses. The river rippled by and the Jhelum swapped with the Lidder, both  supremely beautiful. Like the Bard said “Whats in a name?”

We landed at an airport with tight security and had to purchase a local sim card. The parallel arrivals for the group, we boarded a bus to drive to the houseboat where we were staying for the night. The drive was enchanting. Wide smooth roads, a clean city like no other. Fascinating were the homes. Boxes with sloping roofs like the ones we drew as kids. Brightly coloured, double terraced, with towers, turrets and attics. Some square, some tall some wide. Gardens dotted with flowers. This was the landscape for the rest of the trip. Urban, rural, old or new, official or  residential, rich or poor these houses maintained the quaint designs.

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