Having landed in Lucknow as we were driving to the hotel we passed many domed structures. My interest was piqued and the one surrounded by a “Bagh” was a decade old. Then one found many such domes atop modern structures. I guess that is the Lucknow Leit Motif. The houses we visited had thick walls, tiled floors, “roshan daans” near the ceiling to let the light in, outhouses, huge gardens. The staircase had steps quite high and was a challenge to negotiate. The windows were largely wooden frames with wood or glass. As compared to Calcutta missing were the Khar-khari windows, red cement floors and the courtyard within the house to house the resident deity.

Faint memories from childhood, and the perspective having changed it was a must to visit the monuments again. The last day a quick tour on my own covered most of them. The unusual ones were left for another visit which has become a must.

The Lucknow School of Architecture was an experiment by the resurgent Nawabs of Awadhinfluenced by various cultures and religions throughout the years. The distinct features are the use of Fish as an auspicious motif especially on Gates, the use of Chattar (umbrella), vaulted halls, enclosed baghs, the labyrinth (Bhool Bhulaiya), Taikhanas, Bazaars, the use of Lakhauri bricks.

“A vision of palaces, minars, domes azure and golden, cupolas, colonnade, long faced of fair perspective in pillar and column, terraced roofs – all rising up amid a calm and still ocean of the brightest verdure. Look for moles and miles away, and still the ocean spreads, and the towers of the fair-city gleam in its midst. Spires of gold glitter in the sun. Turrets and gilded spheres shine like constellation. There is nothing mean or squalid to be seen. There is a city more vast than Paris, as it seem, and more brilliant lying before us. Is this the city of Oudh?”

 

Some info

The Fish Symbol: When Sheikh Abdur Rahman was coming to Lucknow from Delhi by boat two fish jumped on his lap. It became auspicious and a part of the Mughal Military decoration as two fish heads on a post. “Mahi Maratib” originated in Persia. In 1819 British artist Robert Home used fish to design Ghazi-ud-dins Court of Arms. Later Wajid