Years ago we went to Vrindavan by car, but walked around in a rustic ambience. Time almost stood still and seemed that not much had changed since HE came here. After almost 40 years the change is unimaginable. It was possibly gradual over time but for me it was a rude shock.

It is an old culture struggling with the new. Girls in jeans eating fast food. A momo stall, electric autos. Unisex salons is indeed progress as is chai sutta. Cakes and pedas displayed together. Large car parks at regular intervals indicating the numbers coming here for salvation. A shop selling liquor. The Jaipuria Bhawan a comfortable dharamshala of yore is rubbing shoulders with a Radisson. It is not completely vegetarian

There are hordes of takers for Chinese goods, AI generated pictures, laser cut idols, some idols in acrylic.

We can now do the Char Dham pilgrimage in Mathura with a huge Shiva as the centerpiece. Flower Prasad are now all in plastic. No more dried leaves fashioned into containers. The instinctive environment consciousness has gone. Mikes blare with requests for donation. Ayodhya, Janmabhoomi relentlessly brought into tirades.

The Janmabhoomi in Mathura has an obviously newly made laminated entrance, most of the inside matching the exterior, except for the cell.

The faith in God remains unchanged. More pronounced perchance. Radhe radhe is the general refrain. Laadli ka desh but leering males making even me uncomfortable.

The open drains are smellier, unclean. Children defecating, cow dung littering the seats. Piles of garbage uncollected. Locals despair over Sarkar inertia. Certainly not better than before. Is it change truly?

We accept it as God’s will and move on.

Me perched on the scooty says it all.